The Journey to Churchill

We travelled for almost 48 hours on the train. Rather than heading straight north from Winnipeg to Churchill which is what we expected, the train tracks led us west into Saskatchewan before turning northeast, reentered Manitoba and clickety-clacked toward Churchill. The following passage is a detailed description of our experience on the train. What a relaxing and gentle way to experience such a remote part of Canada.

Please join us on this journey:

Sunday, November 3 – Tuesday November 5, 2019   The Train to Churchill

The sun is shining brightly as I write these words. It is Monday morning and we have been on the train to Churchill for almost 24 hours. The landscape has changed dramatically over that time as has the temperature. What started as soggy wet farmland under gray skies has transformed in pine and spruce forest with a blanket of glistening white snow underfoot.

Yesterday at noon, we arrived at the Winnipeg train station to await the call to board the train to Churchill. We were surrounded by passengers who were equally eager to get the trip underway. Tourists from China and Switzerland, Montana and Ontario. All ages. Everyone with a singular purpose … to see the polar bears.

Finally, the call came and we all headed to the train. We were assigned cabin C in Car 1. It was a compact cabin with bunk beds folded away and two comfortable arm chairs for us to relax in. A large, clean window invited viewing. A tiny toilet room, an even smaller closet and sink with a cover that doubled as a table and some hooks on the wall for bags or jackets completed the décor. Our home for the next 48 hours. A friendly train attendant named Jo introduced herself to us and gave us a brief introduction to the various facilities and services that were aboard the train.

Slowly the train left the station. Winnipeg is a sprawling city on very flat land. It took a long time to finally reach the outer limits and move into countryside. For the first several hours we travelled through agricultural land. It was a bleak day and everything appeared in various shades of gray.

Vast fields that had produced various crops were now plowed and read for winter. The landscape varied in colour from sandy brown to deep black, depending on the contents of the soil.  Occasionally there was a field of corn that had not been harvested – yet? or at all? That was unclear. Agricultural equipment was lined along the edges of various fields, clearly put to bed for the winter. We could not help but contrast these November scenes with the much more vibrant agricultural panorama we had enjoyed in Saskatchewan in July. To everything there is a season.

As we travelled first west, then northwest, the agricultural priorities shifted from grain production to cattle. Large numbers of healthy black cattle populated vast fields of grass, still green and edible. Each herd was specific in its composition: mother cows with young calves, still milking. Yearlings, both heifers and steers, that were getting ready to sell. Larger and older cattle were awaiting shipping to market for us to enjoy as burgers or steaks or roasts.

A bit further northwest still, the views transformed again. The fields were still grazing land but the animals of choice now were beautiful horses. Show horses or racing horses or some other purpose … that was not clear. But they were beautiful to behold.

By now, Jim and I had explored the various cars on the train. There were a few cabins such as ours; more common were single or double berths that were separated from the narrow corridor by heavy curtains. There were also some coach seats that had a reclining feature but no opportunity to lay down. There was also a small bar area, a dining car, of course, and two dome cars that provided a somewhat panoramic view of the landscape surrounding us. We enjoyed sitting in the panoramic car for both the views but also the conversations among passengers. We spent quite a while chatting with a couple from Switzerland (mid forties) who have visited Canada 14 times and engaged in some pretty adventurous activities (kayaking on the McKenzie River, hiking outside of Yellowknife, climbing in BC and now heading to Churchill).

As the afternoon waned into evening, the landscape changed once again, fields and agriculture giving way to pine forests. It occurred to me that while the Brazilian rainforests provide a high proportion of oxygen to the world, the forests of Canada must also make a substantial contribution to the world’s ability to breathe. Jim had a nap in the dome car while I headed back to our cabin and enjoyed the easy chairs there. Jo, the attendant came by and inquired about setting up one of the beds, perhaps for a nap. I took her up on the idea and watched as she folded the chairs which were stored under the bed and lowered a side wall which transformed into a very comfortable bed complete with sparkling clean linens and a warm quilt, Perfect for a short nap.

Jim ambled back to the cabin in due course and we headed for the dining car for ‘last call’ for dinner. A choice of chicken parmesan, roast beef or vegetarian lasagne was available. I chose the chicken and Jim chose the beef. Both were beautifully presented and absolutely delicious along with al dente fresh mixed vegetables and maple marble cake for dessert. We brought our own beverages with us and finished the meal with a nice cup of tea.

Back in our cabin, Jo had been by one more time to set up the second bed. Very efficient and unobtrusive service. We sat on the lower bunk for a while. I finished my book (a Jodi Piccoult novel called Great Small Things) and then it was time for bed. Wide berths, comfortable mattress, cozy covers … a good night’s sleep awaited. At some point during the night we crossed into Saskatchewan briefly and then back into Manitoba, now travelling northeast as the train continued its journey toward Churchill.

We awoke in the morning to a much brighter day than yesterday had been. Overnight the landscape transformed from agricultural land to forested land. Reminiscent of our train journey across Russia, we were surrounded by birch and pine forest. And the ground was covered with a fluffy white layer of snow, dazzling n the sunlight. A small stream paralleled the train tracks, at times flowly freely, at times frozen at the edges and, at times solid ice from edge to edge. We were literally watching the landscape cross over from autumn to winter. As we travelled further, the snow cover on the ground thickened., completely undisturbed by any human intervention. And the stream continued to be our companion for many, many miles.

Breakfast was a sumptuous feast of pancakes, omelette or bacon and eggs. Once again, it was perfectly plated and delicious to eat. As Jim was sleeping in, I shared a table with a young Chinese woman who lives in St. Catherines. Her parents were visiting from China and they were all going to Churchill for an adventure.

The beauty through the windows continued. We passed by many lakes along the route. Some were totally frozen. At least one had a current and the water remained open for now. Occasional tiny communities came into view with modest, small houses and no apparent roads. Jim spotted a snowmobile and the driver waved at the train as we passed. At one point, the train stopped and passengers disembarked and the train went on. Presumably someone was picking them up at the crossing. This is indeed remote Canada.

We spent most of the day in the dome car enjoying the opportunities for photographs and appreciating the landscape. We were able to see the track in front of the engines when the train went around a curve in the tracks. A long slender pathway through the dense forest … light glistening on the rails and snow blustering along the side of the train.

Lunch time … a salad for me and a sandwich for Jim. More watching out the window. A short nap. Lots of reading and relaxing in the dome car. A black bear sighting and a couple of deer. A before dinner drink and then dinner. What a luxurious and relaxing way to travel.

Dark fell over the forest and we made our way to the dining car for dinner. Baked salmon for Jim and roast beef for me. Once more a delicious meal prepared in limited kitchen facilities. The staff on this train are truly amazing – service, skill, and friendliness.

Back to our cabin for the night. Jo, our room attendant, had once again prepared our beds, freshened the towels and turned on the lights so we felt welcomed when we arrived. It is a pretty small space when the beds are folded down and the ladder to the top bunk creates a barrier for movement. Nonetheless, we were comfortable in the compact but efficient space. It makes us wonder if we could actually live in a ‘tiny house’.

After an evening of reading, it was time to turn out the lights. I have finished my second book, The Tattooist of Auschwitz. It was a compelling story, one that I was not able to put down. Thus, I finished it in a day. What will I read tomorrow?

The train continued its slow journey toward Churchill throughout the night. It stopped and started about a dozen times. We had picked up about 40 passengers in Thompson and apparently dropped many of them off at whistle stops along the way. I sure hope that someone was waiting for them at each stop. This train services many small communities that dot the northern landscape. With no road, the train is a lifeline for these tiny places.

After a refreshing sleep, we welcomed the morning. Once again, I left the cabin first and was astounded by the change in the landscape. Where had all the trees gone? Vast expanses of barren tundra extended in every direction. A few stalwart trees defied the odds. Trees lining the frozen river banks defined their course. Otherwise the landscape was wide open.

Jim joined me for breakfast (another delicious omelette) and we engaged in conversation with the staff and a variety of other passengers. No doubt we will encounter our fellow travellers in Churchill but we have to bid farewell to the crew who will work the return trip when the train leaves Churchill in a few hours.

For a long time, we simply watched out the windows (and completed this part of our blog). A wilderness of snow and periodic tiny trees. As we travelled north, trees reappeared across the landscape. I am not sure why but clearly, the ground was not as constantly frozen as in true tundra.

Clickety-clack. The train continues to roll north toward Churchill. About one hour to go … Time to go pack up.