Saskatchewan - A New Adventure

Monday, July 8, 2019

Regina, Saskatchewan
After a very few and very busy days at home, we packed our bags and headed out for another Canadian adventure. This time our destination was Saskatchewan, a province we have driven across but never taken time to explore. With much research in hand and a very full itinerary, we were ready for 13 days in the province virtually in the middle of our vast country.

The sun was shining brightly as we travelled from our hotel to the nearby Toronto airport. Check-in was smooth and before long we were sitting patiently at our gate. Happily, our Air Canada flight left right on time and we were lucky enough to be in a row for three without a third person. Extra leg room too. Pure pleasure. The sky was mostly cloudy as we flew half way across the country. We did get a great look at Lake Superior and some of the agricultural land in southern Manitoba and Saskatchewan before we landed.

Regina is a fairly small and compact airport. It seemed to take no time to make our way to get our rental car, pick up our luggage (we do not travel lightly ... we really need to learn how to do that!) and be on our way. Our Mitsubushi Outlander is very similar to my Rav at home so adapting to driving it was easy.

Our plan for the rest of the day was to explore Regina with no set schedule or fixed agenda. We set off from the airport and started by running a few errands - Chapters for a book about road tours in Saskatchewan, Starbucks for a sweet treat, Dollarama for some picnic supplies, a drug store for the forgotten first aid cream. Shopping complete, we headed in the direction of Wascana Park. 

Wascana Park is huge!!! It is home to the Parliament House, 

the Science Centre, the Casino (all of which are connected by underground tunnels). There are many gardens as well as an arboretum. Fountains abound and create varied photo opportunities with a very large and winding lake and river in the background. The War Memorial is very moving ... so many names of young men lost in both world wars. There are statues at every turn. One that stuck with us commemorated the settlement of United Empire Loyalists who moved from Ontario to build new life in agricultural Saskatchewan. The memorial is built from rocks that were collected on Saskatchewan farms. Another was a tribute to Walter Scott who wrote the legislation that enabled Saskatchewan and Alberta to become provinces. He then went on to design the Parliament House that stands today as well as being elected as the first Premier of Saskatchewan. Of course, there was a statue of Queen Elizabeth mounted on a horse in honour of her visit to Saskatchewan in 1939.

Wascana Park is also home to lovely picnic grounds, children's play areas, walking trails and bike paths. All of these were well used on this lovely summer afternoon. Sailboats floated on the lake, and kayakers made their way to their destinations. We saw a giant jack rabbit calmly nibbling the grass and a large flock of geese who regularly blocked the passage of cars as they sauntered into the roadways. It kind of felt like home.

We reluctantly left Wascana Park to explore other areas of the city. Our first stop was Mosaic Stadium, an impressive structure, 3 years old, and home to the Saskatchewan Roughriders who will host the Grey Cup next season. It was a bit eery to see such a large stadium totally empty. Adjacent to the stadium were other impressive buildings - the International Trade Centre, the Agrigarium (we assume used for agricultural shows), and another large building that was clearly being set up for an event later this week. We were reminded here that Regina, though modest in size, is the capital city of Saskatchewan and has all the facilities required to host capital city events.

From the stadium, we travelled along many tree-lined streets through a variety of neighbourhoods ranging from extremely opulent with large stone homes to more modest bungalows and even some 'wartime housing' that was in need of some upkeep. We noticed that, except in the high end districts, most homes were built from frame or siding. In general, the city is clean and well maintained and a very pleasant place to be.

Our next stop was in front of Holy Rosary Cathedral, a very large structure and a significant architectural landmark in Regina. The exterior reflects a modest design and the internal walls are almost void of decoration. Nonetheless, its size is impressive.

Our final stop for the day was the RCMP Heritage Centre. It was closed by the time we arrived but we intend to return tomorrow for the noon time ceremony as well as a sunset ceremony. We look forward to seeing the displays of the history of the RCMP inside the building. This Centre is also the only training facility in Canada for RCMP applicants. The training includes classroom instruction, physical fitness and experiential training. It is hard to be admitted to the program and even more difficult to graduate. We observed several men out running their distance today as well as one lonely woman. I hope she is successful in her quest to be an RCMP officer.

As we travelled around the city, we have been astounded at the number of large shopping areas, mostly outdoor malls, that have been built on the edges of the city. Large box stores, fast food restaurants, major chain stores, specialty shops, supermarkets etc. Then it occurred to us. Regina is not simply a city that caters to its own population. Regina is a city that serves many small communities in the agricultural lands that surround it. Literally, people in surrounding areas will need to travel for miles and miles to come to a centre where they can get supplies, equipment, groceries, services etc.

It was also interesting to notice the vehicles on the streets. I would wager that more than 50% of the drivers have pick-up trucks. Many of the rest have SUV's and others have regular sized sedans. We only saw one small vehicle today, akin to a Smart car. 

We also grew in our awareness of the number of native Canadians who are in this city. I am sure that some come in from other communities but many must live right in Regina. Other ethnic groups are visible but the native population really stood out for us, in part because we are not accustomed to seeing so many at home.

Speaking of ethnicity, this city abounds in ethnic restaurants - loads of Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese and Indian eateries as well as a sprinkling of European, African, Middle Eastern and even South American. We tried to choose a place for dinner that would offer a typical western menu. We chose Canadian Brewhouse which had great reviews on Trip Advisor. Sadly, it did not live up to its reputation. Although the ambience and the service was excellent, the food was quite bland (wings and pizza). Tomorrow we might try something a bit more exotic. Time will tell.

Tuesday, July 9, 2019

RCMP Heritage Centre
We left our hotel room later than we had planned this morning. In part, we were still getting organized for our road trip and, in part, we were feeling the impact of a two hour time change. I actually slept in quite a bit. But one we got going, we never stopped to take a breath until late this afternoon. 

Our destination for most of the day was a return visit to the RCMP Heritage Centre. what an amazing place. The centre has three distinct components - a historical display of the RCMP since its inception; a theatre which features a very informative and impressive movie; and a tour of Depot, the only place in Canada where training for RCMP officers takes place.

We began by exploring the historical display. Uniforms have changed many times over the years and there were models of each variation on display. Vehicles have also evolved dramatically, beginning with officers on horseback, moving through eras of dogsleds, snowmobiles, skidoos, tanks and now cars. There was a car that was connected to a video display in which visitors to the centre could test out their driving skills. Jim took his turn and failed miserably. The speed, the dexterity and the precision required to 'drive' the course was beyond most people's capability, yet our RCMP officers must all achieve that standard before they graduate.

Next, we boarded an open-sided bus for a tour of Depot as the training facility is called. We were not allowed inside any of the buildings but we could see how the area was organized with dormitories, a commissary, training facilities, a parade ground and a cemetery where many fallen officers are laid to rest. That was very moving. There is also a small multi-faith chapel on the site where recruits are encouraged to explore their various faiths. It is actually the oldest building in Regina and has served many purposes before being transformed into an Anglican chapel and ultimately a multi-faith facility. 

We paused at the parade ground to watch the new hour parade. All the recruits (a 26 week program) participate and their stage in the program is clear through the uniform they are wearing. Each level of success is marked by a new or additional piece of the RCMP uniform. During the first level of training, the recruits must wear running shoes and, literally, run everywhere. We observed this requirement as the newest recruits organized the parade ground for the upcoming parade. Once the recruits have achieved a specified level of fitness, they graduate out of running shoes and are issued their boots. That provides high motivation for the recruits to work on their fitness levels. Trousers, upgraded to trousers with stripes, dress shirts, brimmed hats, and ultimately the iconic red jacket are awarded as the recruits meet success through the training program. During the parade today, we saw recruits in every variation of the uniform, except for the red jacket. That comes just before graduation.

We learned that every parade must have a band made up of members of the recruits in training. The band must have 25 members. If there are not 25 recruits in Depot who play an instrument, recruits are selected to learn to play an instrument and become part of the band. Our guides reminded us not to judge the quality of the sound, that the recruits are in Depot to become RCMP officers, not musicians.

Following the tour of Depot, Jim and I returned to the Heritage Centre to watch the movie. It was well worth the time. It showed in depth how challenging this training program is - physically, emotionally, cognitively, and interdependently. I have new respect for all RCMP officers because I now have a much deeper understanding of what they had to do to achieve that goal.

We left the Centre about 2 pm, just in time to make our way to Brewed Awakenings to meet friends from Oakville, Angela and Mark Lukowski. They are actually our daughter-in-law's parents. It was a total surprise to learn that they were going to be in Regina on the very day that we were here. We knew they were taking an extensive driving trip across the USA and then coming north and returning home through Canada. It had never entered our minds that our paths would cross. But a chance conversation with our children changed all that and we made a date to have a coffee. It was wonderful to see them, share stories, chat about our son and their daughter, and make a plan to see one another again once we are all back in Ontario. Of course, we took a photo of the occasion.

While we were enjoying our coffee, the skies opened up and the rain fell in torrents. Nearby Estavan got more then 60 mm of rain in less than an hour. We changed our plans about attending a sunset ceremony tonight and, instead, visited a large liquor store. The array of products was astounding, most of the selections similar to but different brands than we have seen in Ontario. We were mostly interested in single serve cans so we limited our search to beer, cider and coolers. One for each night we will be on the road. We both returned to the car, pleased with our purchases.

A quick stop to a grocery store completed our preparation for meals as we travel. We are going into some very rural areas where the advice has been to take the food you think you will need; never pass a gas station without filling up; and never pass a bathroom without emptying out. Good advice all round.

And then it was dinner time. We decided to go ethnic tonight, in particular to go to a tiny Vietnamese restaurant that got rave reviews on Trip Advisor. We arrived at Quan Ngon Delicious Vietnamese Restaurant anticipating good food. We did not anticipate the crowd. It was 6:30 pm and every table in the place was filled, mostly with Asian people, always a great sign. We were asked to share a larger table with another small group which was find with us. We chose vermicelli bowls from the extensive menu and were very impressed with the service, the appearance of the food and, most of all, the flavours. Overall, it was a fantastic meal and a very modest price.

So that brings us to the close of another day. We are installed in our comfy hotel room, me writing and building a photo book; Jim, putting the finishing touches on our plan for tomorrow. It will be an early start for us, so we have to get some sleep soon. The adventure will continue in the morning.

Wednesday,  July 10, 2019

From Regina to Yorkton

We left Regina at 7:30 am, stopping first to fortify ourselves at what we thought we be our last Tim Horton’s for several days. Traffic was light going out of town and soon we found ourselves under beautiful sunshine and blue skies on the open road. Our journey today would take us from Regina throught the Qu’Appelle Valley to the northeast and then further north to Yorkton.

Each day, we have been surprised by many features of Saskatchewan and today was no exception. We have both always thought of Saskatchewan as the ‘yellow’ province, probably because we associate it with broad fields of ripe grain. But, if you asked us today about the colour of Saskatchewan, we would both say ‘green’.

Green fields abound!! Early crops of wheat, barley, sorghum, oats, alfalfa, and flax are stretching toward the sky, various colours of green identifying which field is which. In addition to grain crops, there are well established market gardens, herds of cattle (mostly beef) grazing in the pastures, fields of potatoes and abundant household gardens, growing crops to meet the family needs.

And trees!! Who would have guessed that there are so many trees in this province? As lands were settled, pioneers planted trees around their homes and gardens to protect them from the wind and blizzards but also to gather the snow within so that the water sources would be replenished in the spring sufficiently to provide for their needs throughout the year. Although many old homesteads have disappeared, it is always possible to see where they were located because of the groves of trees surrounding a plot of land.

Tree planting is a significant component of urban planning, from small towns to large cities. Trees beautify the streets, protect people from the intense and long summer sun and provide moisture to freshen the air.

Gone are the days of independent agriculture in Saskatchewan. The fields are enormous; the agricultural equipment is enormous and sophisticated. Modern homes have replaced the original farmhouses, most of which are deserted and have fallen into significant disrepair. Crumbling old barns and other out buildings provide a sharp contrast with new grain bins and large modern barns.

And yet, the iconic scenes from age-old photographs are still present in Saskatchewan. The bright yellow of canola fields in bloom against the cloudless blue Saskatchewan sky. The long straight flat roads that eventually disappear beyond the horizon. The train tracks glistening in the sun in front of the tall grain elevators in every small town. These scenes remain a part of what Saskatchewan is.

The proliferation of lakes has also astounded us. Did you know (we did not) that Saskatchewan has over 10, 000 lakes? Some are large, many are small. Water sports and fishing are popular activities throughout Saskatchewan.  Several rivers are navigable between lakes enabling pleasure boats to travel a considerable distance. There is a fish hatchery on our route today that replenishes lakes and rivers with up to 10,000,000 fish each year. Yes, that was ten million. They are tiny when released from the hatchery so many of them do not survive. From the original ten million, the goal is to add one million surviving fish to the waterways each year. The Fish and Wildlife Ministry determines which lakes will be stocked each year.

Sadly, this year and last, there has been a significant drought in Saskatchewan. Almost no rain has fallen for the last two years. Crops have suffered, especially canola. Marshlands and watering holes have dried substantially, some left with no water at all.

Nonetheless, wildflowers abound, colouring the pasture lands, the roadsides and the edges of planted crops with purple, yellow, pink, and white, blossoms frolicking in the breezes.

As we approached the Qu’Appelle Valley, the landscape began to change, transforming from flat grain fields to gently rolling countryside. Finally, the road plunged down a steep slope into a deep valley and joined the meandering Qu’Appelle River. The valley that has been created by the Qu’Appelle is both deep and vast. It is a fast flowing and wide river with broad floodplains on each side where it has, at times, surged over its banks and deposited rich soil which has become the home of many flourishing market gardens. For those of you from Ontario, the soil is very similar to the rich soil found in the Holland Marsh. Irrigation systems draw water from the Qu’Appelle River and nourish the crops.

The roads in this valley are almost all gravel with many one lane bridges of various ages. The style of bridge tells the tale of the age of the bridge. Photo opportunities abound and, of course, we stopped at every turn to take yet another picture.

Birdlife is abundant. We were surprised to see pelicans soaring on the air currents high in the sky. A beautiful sight. Whippoorwills, red-winged blackbirds, killdeer, hawks, ravens, robins, black-billed magpies, and seagulls provide fly-bys throughout the day. Mosquitoes, various butterflies and huge dragonflies also make their presence known. Along the roadside, especially near established communities, it is not uncommon to see many, many birdhouses suspended on poles to attract birds, especially birds that eat insects.

We have encountered varied wildlife as well. A baby deer playfully bouncing across a field. A doe and a buck munching on grass, warily keeping an eye on us. And another doe who jumped out from the roadside thicket right in front of our car. Thank goodness we were travelling at a very slow speed. Our eyes met and she quickly moved across the road. That was close. Gophers are silly little creatures, always moving at bullet speed as they flit from one place to another. Any sudden movement or noise and they dive for the underground burrows and disappear. Hawks are especially attracted to gophers. Mmm, lunch!

There are several churches that dot the landscape, reflecting a range of denominations. We visited St. Nicholas Anglican Church. Located near Craven, in a farmer’s field, it has been beautifully maintained and frequently photographed.

Later, we visited the small town of Lebret which features two places to worship, a hilltop chapel with stations of the cross leading up the steep slope and the Sacred Heart Church (1925) which dominates the small village. Both are worthy of a short stop.

After a couple of hours on the road, it was time to take a break. The nearest town was still several kilometres away and the sense of urgency was closer than that. We were happy when we saw a gas station and general store at a crossroads called Buffalo Crossing. And, yes, they had a clean bathroom that we could use.  Buffalo Crossing was located on an Indian Reserve and was not noted on the provincial map. It really was a crossroads and not a community per se. We were just grateful to have found it.

The first rule of a driving tour in rural Saskatchewan is: Never pass a gas station without filling your tank and never pass a bathroom with emptying your tank.

In the Qu’Appelle Valley, there are several provincial parks with small beaches and boat launch areas. Fishing is a major activity. The Fish Hatchery is predominantly funded through the sale of fishing licences. We visited Echo Valley Provincial Park and especially enjoyed the vantage from the top of the hill overlooking Pasqua Lake and Echo Lake joined by a short channel, fed by water from the Qu’Appelle River. So peaceful.

We also dropped into Katepwa Point Provincial Park, the smallest provincial park in Saskatchewan.  It was compact but offered both a lovely beach and a boat launch. The park was very well used, well maintained and really quite cute.

We stopped for lunch at Tangerine, a rather pretentious little café in Fort Qu’Appelle. Fort Qu’Appelle is a struggling community with many rundown buildings, vacated commercial space, a pizza shop and a gas station. Tangerine’s menu included couscous salad, pink lemonade, exotic sandwiches and butternut squash soup. While we enjoyed our meal, we did feel that this restaurant did not match the tone of the community and might be a bit ahead of its time.

In Fort Qu’Appelle is significant in history because, in 1874, Treaty Four, a significant treaty between several Indian tribes and the federal government was signed at a park in the town. There is a tall monument to commemorate this event. There are also two original buildings, constructed by the Hudson Bay Company in 1864 and 1897. The older building has deteriorated and is no longer used but the one built in 1897 continues to be used as a retail store.

It was time to leave the Qu’Appelle Valley behind and continue our journey toward Yorkton. We still had a couple of stops to make along the way. We continued along the well-maintained gravel roads, still encountering very little traffic. We turned this way and that and eventually found a little stone church, literally in the middle of nowhere. It was called The Old Stone Church and had been founded as a Presbyterian Church in 1892. It remained operational for only a few years but has somehow maintained its integrity as a building until the present day. It was quite picturesque, situated among vast fields of grain blowing in the wind.

Our final stop for the day was at a National Historic Site known as the Motherwell Homestead. It was settled by William R. Motherwell in 1882. He was born in Perth, Ontario but moved west in quest of land. He first built a sod hut for him and his wife where they lived for three years. A three room frame cottage followed and finally a fully fledged home. Motherwell was active in the agricultural labour movement from an early age. His work was noted and he was appointed minister of agriculture in Saskatchewan and then at a national level. His home, barn, out buildings have been restored and furnished in period furniture. It was a very pleasant place to visit.

We finally made it to Yorkton and finished our day with an art tour of the city. Murals and sculptures were installed throughout this community to mark Saskatchewan’s centennial in 2005. As best we could, we followed a map to locate each piece. It was fun to find them and it turned out to be a good way to explore the town as well.

We ate a picnic dinner in a lovely park, accompanied by very large mosquitoes and a delightful lady from a nearby street who wondered what we were having for dinner and why we were in the park.

We topped up the gas tank and, at long last, settled in for the evening.

(Just a quick post script: Normal driving time from Regina to Yorkton is 1 hour 59 minutes. It took us 12 hours today.)

Wednesday, July 10, 2019-07-10

Regina to Yorkton

We left Regina at 7:30 am, stopping first to fortify ourselves at what we thought we be our last Tim Horton’s for several days. Traffic was light going out of town and soon we found ourselves under beautiful sunshine and blue skies on the open road. Our journey today would take us from Regina throught the Qu’Appelle Valley to the northeast and then further north to Yorkton.

Each day, we have been surprised by many features of Saskatchewan and today was no exception. We have both always thought of Saskatchewan as the ‘yellow’ province, probably because we associate it with broad fields of ripe grain. But, if you asked us today about the colour of Saskatchewan, we would both say ‘green’.

Green fields abound!! Early crops of wheat, barley, sorghum, oats, alfalfa, and flax are stretching toward the sky, various colours of green identifying which field is which. In addition to grain crops, there are well established market gardens, herds of cattle (mostly beef) grazing in the pastures, fields of potatoes and abundant household gardens, growing crops to meet the family needs.

And trees!! Who would have guessed that there are so many trees in this province? As lands were settled, pioneers planted trees around their homes and gardens to protect them from the wind and blizzards but also to gather the snow within so that the water sources would be replenished in the spring sufficiently to provide for their needs throughout the year. Although many old homesteads have disappeared, it is always possible to see where they were located because of the groves of trees surrounding a plot of land.

Tree planting is a significant component of urban planning, from small towns to large cities. Trees beautify the streets, protect people from the intense and long summer sun and provide moisture to freshen the air.

Gone are the days of independent agriculture in Saskatchewan. The fields are enormous; the agricultural equipment is enormous and sophisticated. Modern homes have replaced the original farmhouses, most of which are deserted and have fallen into significant disrepair. Crumbling old barns and other out buildings provide a sharp contrast with new grain bins and large modern barns.

And yet, the iconic scenes from age-old photographs are still present in Saskatchewan. The bright yellow of canola fields in bloom against the cloudless blue Saskatchewan sky. The long straight flat roads that eventually disappear beyond the horizon. The train tracks glistening in the sun in front of the tall grain elevators in every small town. These scenes remain a part of what Saskatchewan is.

The proliferation of lakes has also astounded us. Did you know (we did not) that Saskatchewan has over 10, 000 lakes? Some are large, many are small. Water sports and fishing are popular activities throughout Saskatchewan.  Several rivers are navigable between lakes enabling pleasure boats to travel a considerable distance. There is a fish hatchery on our route today that replenishes lakes and rivers with up to 10,000,000 fish each year. Yes, that was ten million. They are tiny when released from the hatchery so many of them do not survive. From the original ten million, the goal is to add one million surviving fish to the waterways each year. The Fish and Wildlife Ministry determines which lakes will be stocked each year.

Sadly, this year and last, there has been a significant drought in Saskatchewan. Almost no rain has fallen for the last two years. Crops have suffered, especially canola. Marshlands and watering holes have dried substantially, some left with no water at all.

Nonetheless, wildflowers abound, colouring the pasture lands, the roadsides and the edges of planted crops with purple, yellow, pink, and white, blossoms frolicking in the breezes.

As we approached the Qu’Appelle Valley, the landscape began to change, transforming from flat grain fields to gently rolling countryside. Finally, the road plunged down a steep slope into a deep valley and joined the meandering Qu’Appelle River. The valley that has been created by the Qu’Appelle is both deep and vast. It is a fast flowing and wide river with broad floodplains on each side where it has, at times, surged over its banks and deposited rich soil which has become the home of many flourishing market gardens. For those of you from Ontario, the soil is very similar to the rich soil found in the Holland Marsh. Irrigation systems draw water from the Qu’Appelle River and nourish the crops.

The roads in this valley are almost all gravel with many one lane bridges of various ages. The style of bridge tells the tale of the age of the bridge. Photo opportunities abound and, of course, we stopped at every turn to take yet another picture.

Birdlife is abundant. We were surprised to see pelicans soaring on the air currents high in the sky. A beautiful sight. Whippoorwills, red-winged blackbirds, killdeer, hawks, ravens, robins, black-billed magpies, and seagulls provide fly-bys throughout the day. Mosquitoes, various butterflies and huge dragonflies also make their presence known. Along the roadside, especially near established communities, it is not uncommon to see many, many birdhouses suspended on poles to attract birds, especially birds that eat insects.

We have encountered varied wildlife as well. A baby deer playfully bouncing across a field. A doe and a buck munching on grass, warily keeping an eye on us. And another doe who jumped out from the roadside thicket right in front of our car. Thank goodness we were travelling at a very slow speed. Our eyes met and she quickly moved across the road. That was close. Gophers are silly little creatures, always moving at bullet speed as they flit from one place to another. Any sudden movement or noise and they dive for the underground burrows and disappear. Hawks are especially attracted to gophers. Mmm, lunch!

There are several churches that dot the landscape, reflecting a range of denominations. We visited St. Nicholas Anglican Church. Located near Craven, in a farmer’s field, it has been beautifully maintained and frequently photographed.

Later, we visited the small town of Lebret which features two places to worship, a hilltop chapel with stations of the cross leading up the steep slope and the Sacred Heart Church (1925) which dominates the small village. Both are worthy of a short stop.

After a couple of hours on the road, it was time to take a break. The nearest town was still several kilometres away and the sense of urgency was closer than that. We were happy when we saw a gas station and general store at a crossroads called Buffalo Crossing. And, yes, they had a clean bathroom that we could use.  Buffalo Crossing was located on an Indian Reserve and was not noted on the provincial map. It really was a crossroads and not a community per se. We were just grateful to have found it.

The first rule of a driving tour in rural Saskatchewan is: Never pass a gas station without filling your tank and never pass a bathroom with emptying your tank.

In the Qu’Appelle Valley, there are several provincial parks with small beaches and boat launch areas. Fishing is a major activity. The Fish Hatchery is predominantly funded through the sale of fishing licences. We visited Echo Valley Provincial Park and especially enjoyed the vantage from the top of the hill overlooking Pasqua Lake and Echo Lake joined by a short channel, fed by water from the Qu’Appelle River. So peaceful.

We also dropped into Katepwa Point Provincial Park, the smallest provincial park in Saskatchewan.  It was compact but offered both a lovely beach and a boat launch. The park was very well used, well maintained and really quite cute.

We stopped for lunch at Tangerine, a rather pretentious little café in Fort Qu’Appelle. Fort Qu’Appelle is a struggling community with many rundown buildings, vacated commercial space, a pizza shop and a gas station. Tangerine’s menu included couscous salad, pink lemonade, exotic sandwiches and butternut squash soup. While we enjoyed our meal, we did feel that this restaurant did not match the tone of the community and might be a bit ahead of its time.

In Fort Qu’Appelle is significant in history because, in 1874, Treaty Four, a significant treaty between several Indian tribes and the federal government was signed at a park in the town.  There is a tall monument to commemorate this event. There are also two original buildings, constructed by the Hudson Bay Company in 1864 and 1897. The older building has deteriorated and is no longer used but the one built in 1897 continues to be used as a retail store.

It was time to leave the Qu’Appelle Valley behind and continue our journey toward Yorkton. We still had a couple of stops to make along the way. We continued along the well-maintained gravel roads, still encountering very little traffic. We turned this way and that and eventually found a little stone church, literally in the middle of nowhere. It was called The Old Stone Church and had been founded as a Presbyterian Church in 1892. It remained operational for only a few years but has somehow maintained its integrity as a building until the present day. It was quite picturesque, situated among vast fields of grain blowing in the wind.

Our final stop for the day was at a National Historic Site known as the Motherwell Homestead. It was settled by William R. Motherwell in 1882. He was born in Perth, Ontario but moved west in quest of land. He first built a sod hut for him and his wife where they lived for three years. A three room frame cottage followed and finally a fully fledged home. Motherwell was active in the agricultural labour movement from an early age. His work was noted and he was appointed minister of agriculture in Saskatchewan and then at a national level. His home, barn, out buildings have been restored and furnished in period furniture. It was a very pleasant place to visit.

We finally made it to Yorkton and finished our day with an art tour of the city. Murals and sculptures were installed throughout this community to mark Saskatchewan’s centennial in 2005. As best we could, we followed a map to locate each piece. It was fun to find them and it turned out to be a good way to explore the town as well.

We ate a picnic dinner in a lovely park, accompanied by very large mosquitoes and a delightful lady from a nearby street who wondered what we were having for dinner and why we were in the park.

We topped up the gas tank and, at long last, settled in for the evening.

(Just a quick post script: Normal driving time from Regina to Yorkton is 1 hour 59 minutes. It took us 12 hours today.)

Thursday, July 11, 2019

Yorkton to Estavan

We got an early start from Yorkton today, finding a Tim Horton’s just as we left town. Our mainstay source of coffee is more available in Saskatchewan than we might have guessed!! It was raining and the skies looked as if it was an all-day affair. We had another busy day ahead of us and rain was not going to work to our advantage. Nonetheless, we forged ahead.

We were generally travelling west and south today, heading almost to the American border to explore some of the features of the very southern parts of this vast province. As we travelled away from Yorkton, the rain stopped and very soon we were under sunny blue skies again. That certainly helped with our outlook on the day.

We travelled along paved roads and well maintained highways to reach the Historic Bell Barn. The Bell Barn is a round structure built entirely from field stones gathered from the surrounding fields. The barn was part of a major agricultural complex established in 1882. Major William R. Bell had a vision of creating a 64,000 acre agricultural project and ultimately distributing the land to the residents of Indian Head, as the resultant town became known. Sadly, his dream was not to be realized and the bank foreclosed on the property after only a few years. The buildings were abandoned and all fell into disrepair. In 2008, the barn was the only remaining building. It was taken apart stone by stone and reconstructed on an adjacent site. It opened to the public in 2010, serving as a museum for a very ambitious but ultimately failed agricultural project. The barn is impressive; the story is humbling; and the impact of lessons learned still touch prairie agriculture today.

After our visit to the Bell Barn, we visited Vibank. We had hoped to have lunch at The Grotto, a café housed in the chapel of a former convent. Alas, the café only operates on Wednesday mornings and Friday and Saturday evenings. No lunch for us. It was a chance to explore another deeply rural community. One interesting feature was the Vibank Regional School which offers programs for Kindergarten through grade 12 in a single building. Not surprisingly, most students travel to and from school by bus, some travelling for many miles in each direction.

Our next plan was to go to a tiny village called Forget. It too had an interesting sounding café called The Happy Nun. It was already after 1 pm so we tried to hurry along a bit so as not to miss the lunch period. Jim checked the website as we travelled and, guess what? It too was closed today. No Happy Nun lunch either.

The next place on the map was a larger community named Stoughton. Trip Advisor recommended Tammy’s Roadhouse as the best restaurant in town. No problem. Off to Tammy’s we went. Except … Tammy’s was nowhere to be found. We asked at a nearby store and apparently, Tammy had closed up shop and was no longer serving lunch. Yikes!!!

By this time, we were beyond hungry and more than a bit frustrated. So, we dug into the snack bag for an apple and banana and some jerky and continued along the road to Estavan, about an hour away. We knew for sure there would be restaurants there.

Along the way, we stopped several times to take photos of grain elevators alongside train tracks, wild flowers of many colours, birds that we could capture as they rested on fence posts, road signs that ‘spoke’ to us. Did you know there are moose in Saskatchewan? That had never occurred to either of us but there were moose warning signs along the highway for several kilometers. But no moose … that is becoming the theme of our day!

We also found a few roads that I dubbed ‘the road less travelled’. We were travelling along gravel roads much of the time, but these roads were nothing more than dirt tracks or two tracks with grass in the middle. We re brave travellers but not foolish enough to go on those. I am sure they led somewhere and were useful to someone!

And then, we saw them … silhouettes in the distance, rhythmically moving their arms up and down, up and down. Oil wells … first one, then a cluster, then a whole line … up and down, up and down. There was a pipeline along the side of the main road, no doubt transporting the oil from its source to its first destination.

I grew up in Sarnia so I am familiar with oil wells. I had simply forgotten that there was oil being collected in southern Saskatchewan. In one row of wells, we counted 28 operational pumps.

Finally, we arrived in Estavan. Once more, Jim had checked Trip Advisor and a place called Black Beard was listed as the finest restaurant in town. We found it. It was open. We were hungry and the food was D E L I C I O U S!!! It was worth the wait.  We both ordered their cheesy pepper pot soup. Jim ordered a roast beef dinner and I ordered one of their specialties - mexi poutine (taco ingredients on fries with gravy rather than nachos). I know that many of you are turning your nose up at the very idea. But do not judge a book by its cover!! It was delicious!

However, we both knew we were in trouble when our server asked us if we would like the small or the large size of our orders. Being hungry, we both chose large. What arrived at our table should have been described as enormous. Jim managed to finish his but I was beaten when I was only halfway through. It was far too much food.

We waddled out of the restaurant and got back in the car for our final adventure of the day. We were only 20 kilometres from the border with North Dakota. We simply had to satisfy our curiosity and explore yet another border crossing. We find it fascinating that something as artificial as a line in the sand can determine where you live, how you live, what your values and priorities might be, the geography that you learn and understand, the loyalty that you develop … all because of an arbitrary line that has been drawn on a map.  And so we looked across the great divide and saw North Dakota. We did not cross. We simply reflected on what it all meant.

On our way back to Estavan, we passed by a large mining operation and watched four draglines work into the evening to retrieve the contents of the earth for use on earth. Tomorrow we are going on an “Energy Tour” and will actually visit the mine. More on that tomorrow.

For now, the day is done.
Good night.

Friday, July 12, 2019

Estavan to Moosejaw

Once again, our morning started early. We were up, ready and waiting for an 8:30 am call from the Estavan Tourist Office confirming that our Energy Tour would begin at 9 am. Yesterday, prior to our arrival, the tour was cancelled due to the effects of a torrential rain storm that had come through two days ago. But it had not rained since that time and all indications were that the roads to the mine and the power plant were passable and the roads within the facility lands would be ok as well. But, alas, people who know better than we had decided that the tour would not be offered today as well. We were hoping that this day was not going to go the way that yesterday did with all of our plans falling apart.

Jim had a conversation with the tour guide, Chelsea, a young university student who was working at the tourist office for the summer. It turned out that we were the only people signed up for the tour. Chelsea felt badly about the cancellation and offered to take us on a short, modified tour. We jumped at the chance. So, we set off, asking many questions right from the start. She responded to our interest with enthusiasm and the short tour turned into a personalized excursion that was longer than the original tour would have been.

The Energy tour focussed on the major industries in Estavan. There is a huge open pit coal mine, two generating stations, natural gas pipelines and oil rigs. Estavan is indeed an energy town with over 300 people employed at the coal mine alone.

Our tour began at a small mining museum at the edge of town. The museum may have been small but the equipment on display was huge. We learned that an open pit mine operates using only four main pieces of equipment. The dragline (a large crane-like machine) removes the soil that is on top of the coal. It does so using a bucket that removes 100 tons of dirt at a time.

Once the coal has been uncovered, a smaller bucket is used to actually extract the coal from the land. It is placed in a loader (huge truck) to carry it to the holding site. Four buckets of coal will fill a truck. Once the coal is out of the mine, a crusher is used to break it into smaller pieces so that it can be used as fuel at the two power generating stations where enough electricity to support Estavan and a large surrounding area is produced.

The more modern of the two generating plants has embedded carbon removal equipment so that less carbon is emitted into the air. Coal dust is also used as a fuel source for the plant. The coal dust is heated to such a temperature that it becomes a gas and directed into the generator as fuel for electricity production.

The land around the vast mine pits is processed and reclaimed so that the landscape can sustain life through vegetation, animals and birds. I have to admit that the reclaimed lands we saw were much hillier than the natural Saskatchewan landscape. When we asked Chelsea about this, her response was that many people prefer to have some hills in the landscape so the decision was made to leave it that way. My suspicion is that there is a much more complex and political answer to the question. Nonetheless, the mined landscape is covered with grass, trees, and other vegetation. Small ponds have developed in the valleys between the hills, supporting animals, large and small, and several species of birds.

The regular tour takes participants into the mine site and the generating station. We were not able to do either of these things. But we were very happy with the tour we were given and the information that was shared.

We left Estavan and returned to the very flat landscape of much of Saskatchewan. Today, we were travelling along a major highway en route to Moosejaw. The train tracks paralleled the highway and periodically we would see the engines of a very long train approaching us on the track. One of the trains was comprised primarily of grain cars and another was hauling oil tankers. Estavan has the resources to fill both kinds of cars and ship product off to market.

Under the beautiful blue sky, we enjoyed passing by a broad range of crops in various stages of development. It appears that many crops are planted in about two week intervals so some of the fields were taller and more mature than others. I am sure that has to do with the time and equipment required to harvest the crops. Such vast fields could not possible all be harvested at the same time.

Colours filled the landscape. The yellow of the canola plants was bright and beautiful; the blue of the flax was soft and gentle; the green of the wheat (not ripening yet) created waves in the breeze. And the sky was pure blue.

We passed by several grain elevators along the sides of the highways and train tracks. I am sure they are very busy places when the harvest begins. We waved at a farmer cutting his hay. He did not seem to object to us taking his picture. 

We paused on several side roads to take pictures of the fields and plants. There was virtually no traffic on any of them … until a vast tractor pulling a swather approached us head on. We pulled off the narrow road as far as we could. The driver of the tractor seemed faintly amused by the whole situation and casually pulled his equipment further onto the opposite shoulder and easily passed us by.

We passed by several villages, most of which had no services to offer a tourist – no fuel, no food and, especially, no washrooms. We stopped for lunch in the medium-sized town of Weyburn. No special lunch plans for us today. We opted for something as predictable as a Subway sandwich. At least we knew it would be open!!

Back on the road, the weather seemed to be taking a turn for the worst and a serious prairie rain storm was forming in the west and coming directly toward us. It was going to be a tight race. Would we make it across the storm’s path before it unleashed its fury or would we be caught in such a downpour that we would have to pull off the road.

It was close. The first raindrops were hitting our windshield when we finally found the edge of the storm and the highway changed direction and took us unscathed on our way to Moosejaw. I do not think the three motorcycles who were going in the other direction would have been so fortunate.

Once we arrived in Moose Jaw, we headed directly to the tourist office. We had made arrangements to take a trolley tour of Moose Jaw at 3:30 pm. We had a few minutes to spare before the trolley pulled out. A bit of a rest refreshed us and we were ready to go again!

The trolley tour was delightful. The driver was quite a character and the tour guide was articulate, knowledgeable and used humour along the way. The weather was perfect so all the trolley windows were wide open. We saw historic buildings, tourist attractions, beautiful parkland, a collection of murals (48 in total – we did not see them all) that are painted on buildings throughout the main section of town. We stopped at Papa John’s Pizza for complimentary pizza that Papa John provides for each trolley tour. Apparently, Papa John’s Pizza proudly originated in Moosejaw. We learned a little of the history of Moosejaw including several stories of bootlegging during prohibition in the 1920’s. It is even possible that Al Capone played a role in the story but that has not been verified. The tour ended with a lovely drive through parkland along the river. It was delightful.

Jim and I decided to do some more exploring following the tour. Armed with a map of where all the murals are located, we travelled on many streets in the main area of town to see what we could find. It was a bit like our own personal scavenger hunt. We also spent some time along the river and along the train yard.

Moosejaw has a major role in rail transportation, both freight and passenger, in Canada. The rail yard has over 10 parallel tracks with train cars on all of them. They sort and order the cars and put them together as trains heading off across the country. It is complex work, to say the least. As we crossed the river for the last time, we travelled under a rail bridge with a train rumbling across it. I felt a bit like a child … it was exciting.

It was time to head to our hotel. We decided to have a light dinner in our room tonight as we are both feeling a bit fatigued. We have another big day tomorrow as we continue our driving tour of southern Saskatchewan. What a great place to be able to spend some time.

Saturday, July 13, 2019

Moosejaw to Val Marie

We left Moosejaw early this morning, fortifying ourselves with the last Tim Hortons coffee we will enjoy for many days. We were out on the open road again, having planned a long day as we headed south and west to the Grasslands National Park at the western edge of the province and abutting Montana in the USA. We followed the Trans Canada Highway to the southern bypass across Moose Jaw. And then onto Highway 2 en route to Assinaboia, about 2 hours away.  

In Assiniboia, we found gas, a bathroom, and a stereotypical western town. It had high fronted stores on the main street. The street itself was wide enough to turn a wagon train around, or perhaps some more large, modern agricultural machinery. But the signs all said "NO U TURNS". We did not quite understand but followed the rule even though we were the only vehicle on the street going either direction at 10:30 on a Saturday morning. 

Main street featured many empty storefronts and even those that were occupied were not open. Interestingly, there were 3 hair salons, a spa and a barber shop. Maybe everyone comes to town to get their hair cut. The only grocery store in town had closed but the hardware was open for business. We could not find a single other shop that was open! Amazing! 

We left Assiniboia and continued our cross country journey to Wood Mountain Regional Park. This park is the site of the longest continuous rodeo in Canada. It began 130 years ago, initiated by the RCMP post in that location with the hope of creating competition to reinforce and strengthen their horse skills, so vital to the role of the RCMP at that time. WE went to the rodeo for the morning event, calf roping. What skill the riders had in being able to stay on their horses while quickly and successfully ropng the calf by the horns and the hind legs. Two riders, two ropes, one attempt. It was fun to watch and we commented on how humane it seemed compared to the rodeo we attended several years ago. Animal rights advocates have made a difference.

Following the rodeo, we stopped for a short time at the original site of the Wood Mountain RCMP post. Several flags, informational signs and two reconstructed buildings mark the site. 

We travelled from Wood Mountain Regional Park to Grasslands National Park East. It was long drive on heavy gravel roads, requiring maximum concentration to stay in the lanes that had been created by previous vehicles. Fortunately, because of the plumes of white dust created by every vehicle, it was quite possible to spot oncoming traffic while they were still a long way off, giving me time to safely shift from the middle of the road to the right-hand lane. It was tricky to cross over through the heavy gravel, something I did not get used to it at any time throughout the day. The scenery along the way was delightful. The terrain was quite hilly and gradually changed from cultivated crop-producing land to pasture land. Herds of cattle were visible in many fields as well as several smaller groups of horses. Wild flowers were growing in every direction – pink, purple, yellow, orange, white, more purple and more purple. The pastures were a glorious riot of colours. We also saw 2 deer running through a wheat field. I am sure the farmer would not be happy but we loved the pastoral scene they created.

We had lunch when we arrived at the Grassland East Park Visitor’s Centre. The visitor centre is brand new this season and is still getting itself organized. We were disappointed that we were not able to see their introductory park film. Neither staff person knew how to operate the technology. After lunch, we drove to the camping area to see the Otentiks. They are new camping structures and look a lot like large tents except they are far sturdier and are furnished with beds and other amenities. It is still necessary to use a common washroom area so we will not be staying in them yet.

Then, we went on an 11 kilometre Badlands Driving Tour in Grasslands Park. It was a brand new paved road. Even the many twists and turns did not affect my delight at being off the gravel. The vistas from the cliffs were spectacular. Far below and all across the broad valley were unusual landforms, often chalky white in colour that formed the Badlands of Saskatchewan. These large and strangely shaped hills were void of plant matter and looked quite eery in the distance. They were quite a contrast to all the other areas of Saskatchewan that we have seen to date.

Once we completed the driving tour, it was time to travel from Grasslands East to Grasslands West. Although both East and West are considered part of the same park, they are quite a long distance apart feature many different physical attributes. Once again, we headed out on gravel roads. We climbed high on hills along this route, enjoying beautiful vistas from atop the hills and, at times, plunging deep into valleys where we found streams, marshy areas and many trees. The roads were so straight, we could see oncoming traffic miles in advance. At times, it felt like someone had used a ruler to draw a line across the map and said, “This is where the road will go.”

After a couple of hours on gravel, we once again reconnected with paved highway. The driving was both easier and so much quieter. We stopped in a tiny town called Mankota where we decided we needed to put some fuel in our tank. As it was a Saturday, the gas pumps were not operating but there was a sign that gave a number to call if we needed gas. So, Jim called a lady at home who immediately came and pumped gas for us. She was at least 80 but seemed totally at ease at being called out of her home to help the helpless tourists. Later that evening, we encountered another similar station except it accepted credit cards and then we could pimp the gas.

In Grasslands Park West we another driving tour, an ECO tour this time, focussing on the animals in the park. We first saw the black tailed prairie dog communities. They live in large groups in underground burrows. They are inquisitive, noisy, and dive for cover if frightened. They were fun to watch, kind of dancing as they moved and sometimes simply barking in a high squeaky voice. They are much larger and calmer than the tiny Richardson ground squirrels, commonly called gophers, that are everywhere. Along the route, we searched for the small herd of bison that have been introduced to the park. Today, they were elusive. Sadly, we did not see them at all. We did have a good view of 70 Mile Butte far across a valley. It is reported to be the very best backdrop on which to enjoy a sunset. We saw many more wild flowers, a bit dusty for lack of rain. It was a hot afternoon and there was very little movement in the animal kingdom – no deer, no antelope, no rabbits. Oh well.

We drove toward Val Marie where we were staying, pausing to explore Two Tree Road which provided another great view of 70 Mile Butte and the surrounding pasture lands. The only eatery open in Val Marie (population 120) was the local hotel. Tonight there was a special meal – a Chinese buffet. The hotel is run by a Chinese family. The buffet offered passable food at a reasonable price. We moved on to our accommodation. Don's Place where we are staying defies description - clean, bathroom in room, run down, old cars, washing machines and other equip littering yard and worst of all, no air conditioning. One night at Don’s will be plenty. When asked, Jim said it was the only room within range of the park that had an en suite. And I will admit, I am pretty insistent on an en suite.

One of the main reasons for spending a night in Val Marie is because it is within a Dark Sky Preserve. A Dark Sky Preserve is an area that is deliberately kept dark so that the night sky is fill with celestial bodies that are not visible anywhere else. This southwest corner of Saskatchewan was the first Dark Sky Preserve established anywhere in the world. There are now a small number in other places as well. A Dark Sky Preserve generally has a small population and has expectations of all who live there to abide by some guidelines that maintain the dark. There are very few outdoor electric lights. Those that do exist are a special kind that minimize the impact of the light.

At dusk, we travelled back to Two Tree Road to observe the sky. Sadly, both sunset and star-gazing was marred by clouds. However, all was not lost. We were in for an unexpected treat. A large storm system had just passed through the area featuring some amazing lightning bolts. But, as the darkness fell and the evening progressed, it became clear that we were no longer looking at lightning bolts. Colours danced across the horizon, far to the west and to the east. We were witnessing a spectacular show of northern lights. The aurora continued for more than an hour before diminishing in colour and expanse. We were thrilled!!

Tomorrow night we will still be in a Dark Sky preserve and hopefully there will be a clearer sky so we can enjoy the stars.

Sunday, July 14, 2019

Val Marie to Spring Valley Guest Ranch (near Cypress Lake Interprovincial Park)

We began our day with a light breakfast in an old schoolhouse/book store/ museum in Val Marie. It was a delightful place and has been open in Val Marie for 20 years, transforming to the needs of the tourist traffic throughout that time. We had a wonderful conversation with the proprietor about the history of the building as a school and as a business. We were very happy to have stopped in before we left Val Marie this morning.

Our next stop was just across the road, a visit to the Grasslands West Visitor Centre where we were able to see the movie about the Grasslands National Park and where we had an opportunity to chat with knowledgable staff about the park.  We then headed off toward Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park, many miles to the northwest. We stayed mainly on paved roads today, taking the long way around at times, but the difference between the pavement and yesterday's gravel more than made up for the time difference.

Along the way, once again crop lands gave way to pasture land. It became common to see cattle and horses grazing in vast fields. We even saw several fields with a bull or two. Bulls are very large and very well endowed animals, to say the least!

On a gentler note, we also saw wildlife running in their natural habitats. Of course, Richardson's ground squirrels were prolific, mostly seen scurrying or dancing their ways across the roadways. Cute, but a bit of a nuisance to the driver who did not want to hit them. Several times, the car rolled over them but somehow they managed to stay between the wheels and could be seen in the rear-view mirror scampering off to whatever their destination might have been. There was evidence on pavement that some were not as lucky as others. There were many, many hawks and ravens around to take care of the refuse. The hawks soared above the roadway, searching for a lovely morsel for lunch.

We were also fortunate to see a female deer with twin fawns on the shoulder of the road. As we approached, mom prodded her babies toward the shelter of the wheat field. They were more reluctant that she was and she waited patiently for them near the edge of the field. We also saw a large and powerful coyote crossing the road. I know this is not exciting to those of us who see them encroaching our urban communities, but to see one running freely in its natural habitat was actually quite wonderful.

And then there was the antelope, as curious about us as we were about him. At first he ran a short distance away from us. We stopped the car and sat quietly as he gradually moved closer and closer to us. It was quite an astounding experience as we and the antelope both gazed at one another and took a moment to appreciate another species. Of course, we also got some great photos as he kept coming closer.

We enjoyed a vast array of wild flowers again today - so many colours - pink, white, yellow, orange, purple, blue, more purple and more purple.

After several hours of travel (Saskatchewan is a large province.), we arrived at the T Rex Discovery Centre in Eastend. In the early 990's, a school teacher hiking in the Badlands came upon an unusual rock and contacted a geologist to inquire about it. It turned out to be a bone from the largest T Rex ever found in the world. It would have weighed about 19,500 pounds and is the most complete skeleton ever found, about 69% in tact. Since that time, paleontologists have been working steadily to reconstruct 'Scotty's" skeleton to learn more about the life and science of a dinosaur. It was interesting to learn only 13 full T Rexes have been recovered from fossils anywhere in the world. There is a full sized replica of Scotty on display in the Centre and also some wonderful large windows where it is possible to see the scientists at work and to view the real fossils as they piece together this enormous and real-life jigsaw puzzle. The Centre also showed a great movie about paleontology and the work scientists do to discover more about the era of the dinosaur.

Hills grew larger as we drew closer to Cypress Hills, our next destination. Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park is partially in Saskatchewan and partially in Alberta. It features 
lovely recreational facilities, immense camping capacity, numerous walking trails, drives to lookout points where we could see for miles and miles.  It was too hazy to capture the view with our camera. We will have to hold those vistas in our minds. And, this park is also in a dark sky preserve. On the natural waterway that flows through the park, we saw loons, pelicans, a goose family and a duck family out for a Sunday afternoon swim. And there were more people than we have seen since we left Moose Jaw. It is clearly a well loved and well used park with licence plates from both Saskatchewan and Alberta.

Speaking of licence plates reminds me of an observation we have made here about preferred vehicles. Almost no one drives a car. There are many, many varieties of SUVs on the roads but, by far, the most common vehicle is a pick-up truck. Everyone seems to have one! We took a photo in the parking lot at Cypress Lake of our vehicle (an SUV) nestled among 4 pick-up trucks in a row. 

All too soon, we left Cypress Lake and continued up the highway toward Maple Creek. We stopped at Grotto Gardens Country Market with a great play space designed for kids.  We purchased a piece of Saskatoon/Blueberry pie for a treat this evening. 

Maple Creek is lovely town with many amenities including TWO gas stations. We will be back in the morning to fill our tank. A lengthy train went through while we were cruising along Pacific Avenue. It made us realize how a railway town is really divided into two parts - one on each side of the tracks. In this town neighbourhoods and services seemed to be on one side of the tracks while industries were located on the other side. The two rail crossings must be very busy at the beginning and the end of each work day.

In Maple Creek, there was only one restaurant open so that is where we had dinner. We experienced very slow service but very nice food. All was well.

Back down the highway we went, to Spring Valley Guest Ranch where we are staying tonight. Kind and generous host, Jim, made us feel very welcome and even did our laundry for us. We are very appreciative. He promised bacon and eggs for breakfast, eggs from his own hens.

We will sleep well tonight after another very full day.

Monday, July 15, 2019

Spring Valley Guest Ranch (near Cypress Hill Park) to Open Skies Bin Experience near Rosewood

We began our day with a delightful farm breakfast prepared by our host, Jim. We invited him to join us and we engaged in an animated conversation about his home, his work, his passion for history and we even ventured into the realm of politics. It was lively and fun and ultimately delayed our departure by a bit.

When we finally got everything packed and loaded, our first task for the day was to repeat travelling on a road for the third time. There was just no other sensible route to take to Maple Creek. And we needed to go to Maple Creek to get some fuel for the car, get Jim a coffee and to pay a visit to the Cowtown Toy and Candy store. We also stopped at the Cowboy Church which worships on Tuesday evenings. All errands complete, we were ready to head out for the day.

It was another long but beautiful drive to our first destination, Leader, where we toured the village to see several sculptures of birds and animals that live in this part of Saskatchewan. While the sculptures were not high level art, they did pay homage to the fauna of the area and also put Leader on the map. A good effort by the town council.

From Leader, we headed to Sceptre, another small town in south central Saskatchewan. Sceptre is the home of the information centre for the Great Sand Hills, the largest accessible Sand Hills in Canada. They cover 1900 square kilometres. We were a bit surprised when we arrived at the information centre in Sceptre that it was not as advertised. Rather, it was a very cute and well organized museum about the village of Sceptre, itself. Each room reflected a different component of the village – health care, education, agriculture, RCMP, flora and fauna. It was interesting to browse the displays but it was not what we had come to see. On our way out, the young girls working there offered us a map of how to get the Sand Hills. We gratefully accepted the map and headed off once more. We did have a good laugh in the car along the way.

The map was useful and we did find the Great Sand Hills. Owned by the government, they are mostly leased out to local farmers and have grown plants that totally cover the surface of every dune but one. That one was impressive, rising high about the regular landscape and offering beautiful white sand to climb, slide on, relax in the sun, roll down etc. We were glad we made this stop to see another unique feature of Saskatchewan. But we did not stay very long.

Our next stop was the Beechy Sand Castles. Along the way, we dropped into Swift Current to get gas and there was a Tim Hortons there as well. Then we continued aling the highway toward Beechy and came to Saskatchewan Landing Provincial Park on the shores of Lake Diefenbacher. Of course, we had to stop and take a photo of the lake named after one of the earliest prime ministers either of us remembers. We continued along the highway until we came to the road that led to Beechy.

Little did we know that another adventure awaited us. We turned off the main highway onto a rough gravel road which carried us about 30 kilometers to the laneway of a huge Hutterite community. The directions in the guide we were using were a bit vague at that point and we were grateful when a truck turned into the Hutterite Community and stopped beside our car. They wanted to know why we were taking photos of their homes and property but we diverted the conversation to how to get to the Sand Castles. They laughed but politely gave us clear directions. Follow that gravel road (they pointed to the one) and when it turns right, continue straight onto the dirt laneway straight ahead. Follow the laneway until you come to a pasture gate. Go through the gate and drive along the pasture trail. You will find the sand castles there. And off they went.

And so did we. We followed their directions perfectly. Gravel road, dirt laneway, trail through pasture … no problem. What we did not realize is that it had rained pretty hard the day before and parts of the dirt laneway were washed out. No worries … we drove around the gaps on the verge of the road. Oops … there were also some pretty deep puddles blocking the pasture trail … again no worries … we drove on drier land in the pasture and made our way through. But then, we came to the sign that said,  “No trespassing” and the gate in front of us was closed. We were so close. We could see the edge of the cliff that looked down upon the Sand Castles. Undaunted, Jim sprang from the car and got across the gate. He hiked along the trail to the edge of the cliff. He had taken the camera to record his mission to share with me.

Meanwhile, I turned the car around, ready to make a quick getaway if necessary. And I sat in the car and worried that either Jim would fall over the cliff and I would not even know it or the landowner would arrive on the scene and want to know why I was parked at the No Trespassing sign and where was my companion. After what felt like a long time, Jim finally returned to the car and we headed back out the same way we had come in. It was easier driving out as I knew all the idiocyncracies of the roadway. Before long, we were back on the public road, the only evidence of our adventure being a very dirty car. In fact, Jim had also not seen the Sand Castles because the pasture trail had continued along the edge of the cliff for another couple of kilometres but was truly impassable because of the recent rain. Oh well … at least we tried.

Back on the main highway again, we made a decision to forgo a restaurant meal tonight and head directly to our accommodation, still an hour away. Along the way, we saw several deer and also an antelope. All were standing along the shoulder of the road. As it was dusk, we were a bit concerned about an animal dashing out in front of us. We were both watching the road and the shoulders carefully but, happily, nothing unusual occurred.

We were excited about our home for the night. We are staying in a grain bin!!! Yes … a grain bin!! Totally transformed into the cutest little cabin, complete with a queen bed, a beautifully designed kitchen, a spacious bathroom, a fireplace and a small sitting area. Just outside our door is our own private hot tub which we will be using as soon as I finish writing our account of today. It really is a comfortable and unique place to hang our hats. Thanks, Jim, for finding this for us.

Now … off to the hot tub!